Sport Climbing Combined Olympics [2024 Recap & LA28 Changes]

1. Introduction

The Olympics turned sport climbing into must-see TV – but with LA28’s complete format overhaul, even diehard fans need a roadmap. Don’t worry, we’ve got your backstage pass to understanding all the changes!

 Let’s be honest – trying to follow Olympic climbing can feel like scaling a sheer rock face without ropes. Between the speed specialists, boulder wizards, and lead climbers, plus all the scoring quirks, even casual viewers get stuck wondering:

• Why did that climber win when they fell earlier?
• How does speed climbing actually work?
• What’s changing for LA28 and why does it matter?

That’s exactly why we created this no-jargon, easy-to-digest guide. Whether you’re a climbing newbie who discovered the sport during Paris 2024 or a longtime fan prepping for LA28, we’ll break down:

✓ What made Paris 2024’s combined format so controversial
✓ The smart reasons behind LA28’s major changes
✓ How these shifts will impact your favorite athletes

2. Sport Climbing 101: The Three Olympic Disciplines Demystified

Olympic climbing might look like one sport, but it’s actually three completely different challenges rolled into one heart-pounding competition. Whether you’re new to climbing or just need a refresher before LA28, here’s your ultimate guide to understanding speed, boulder, and lead climbing – complete with real Olympic examples that’ll make you feel like an expert commentator.

Speed Climbing: The 100-Meter Dash of the Vertical World

Imagine sprinting up a five-story building in under 6 seconds. That’s speed climbing in a nutshell.

• The Setup: Two climbers race side-by-side on identical 15-meter walls

• The Gear: Automatic belay systems catch them when they (inevitably) let go at the top

• The Drama: Current world records are jaw-dropping – 5.00 seconds for men (Veddriq Leonardo) and 6.53 seconds for women (Aleksandra Mirosław)

Why It’s Exciting: Races are often decided by hundredths of a second – closer than Olympic swimming finals!

Bouldering: A Gymnast’s Strength Meets a Chess Master’s Strategy

Bouldering turns climbing into a series of short, intense puzzles:

• 4 Problems, 4 Minutes Each: Climbers get limited attempts to solve each “boulder”

• No Ropes, Just Pads: Falls are common, but the landings are soft

• Scoring Secrets:

  • Top Hold = 25 points (bonus if done first try)

  • Zone Hold = 10 points for reaching the midway checkpoint

Tokyo Highlight: Janja Garnbret’s creative solution to the infamous “Rose Move” boulder left even veteran climbers stunned.

Lead Climbing: Where Endurance Meets Precision

This is climbing in its purest Olympic form:

• One Chance, No Mistakes: Climbers get a single attempt on a 15+ meter route

• Clipping In: They must secure their rope at designated points along the way

• The Scoring: Each hold is worth points, with the top 10 holds being most valuable

Heartbreak Moment: At Paris 2024, Jakob Schubert’s final hold slip cost him gold by just 3 points.

How They Fit Together

The Olympic format has evolved to showcase all three disciplines:

• Paris 2024: Combined boulder & lead with separate speed event

• LA28 Changes: Speed becomes fully independent, while boulder/lead gets new scoring

Pro Tip: Watch for athletes who specialize – some excel at explosive speed while others dominate the technical boulder problems.

Paris 2024: A Case Study – How the Combined Format Played Out

The Paris 2024 Olympics rewrote the rules for sport climbing—literally. While speed climbing got its own standalone event (finally!), the boulder & lead combined format delivered edge-of-your-seat drama. Here’s how it unfolded, why Janja Garnbret reigned supreme, and what the medal table reveals about climbing’s global rise.

The Medal Table: Who Topped the Podium?

(Visual: Top 5 Countries by Medals)

1. Slovenia (Gold: Janja Garnbret) – Dominated boulder/lead with technical mastery

2. USA (Silver: Brooke Raboutou) – Consistency across disciplines paid off

3. Austria (Bronze: Jessica Pilz) – Strong lead climbing secured podium

4. Japan (4th: Ai Mori) – Lead specialist nearly stole the show

5. France – Home crowd advantage boosted performance

   

Surprise Snub: Speed specialists like Poland’s Aleksandra Mirosław (who broke her own world record twice) didn’t factor into this combined event—proof the format favored all-rounders .

Why Garnbret Dominated (Despite Her Speed Weakness)

Paris 2024’s scoring revolution played to her strengths:

• Boulder Brilliance: Topped 3/4 problems (including a flash on Problem 2) for 75/100 points .

• Lead Leverage: Climbed higher than anyone (92/100 points), using her signature endurance .

• No Speed Drag: Unlike Tokyo 2020, speed wasn’t factored in—her 8.67s personal best stayed irrelevant.

Secret Weapon: Garnbret’s “prepare for everything” mindset. Even after injuring her finger mid-final, she gritted through pain to seal gold .

Key Takeaways for Fans

1. Scoring Simplified: Paris used straight addition (Boulder + Lead = 200 max), ditching Tokyo’s confusing rank-multiplication .

2. Specialists Thrived: With speed separate, boulder/lead climbers like Garnbret could focus on their craft 1.

3. The Future? Athletes now push for four medals in LA28: Speed, Boulder, Lead, and Combined .

Pro Tip: Watch Garnbret’s “zone hold tactics”—she often skipped lower zones to conserve energy for tops .

LA28 Changes Simplified: What’s Different (And Why It Matters)

The 2028 Los Angeles Olympics will bring the biggest shake-up in sport climbing history, finally giving each discipline—speed, boulder, and lead—its own standalone medal event. Here’s how the rules compare to Paris 2024, and why these changes matter for athletes and fans alike.

2024 vs. 2028: Rule Comparison Table

Key Takeaways for Fans

1. Specialization Wins

   • No more “jack-of-all-trades” pressure. Athletes like Janja Garnbret (boulder) and Ai Mori (lead) can dominate their preferred disciplines without speed dragging them down 4.

2. Fairer Competition

   • Paris’ combined format controversially favored all-rounders. LA28’s split ensures speed climbers (e.g., Aleksandra Mirosław) aren’t overshadowed 414.

3. More Drama, More Stars

   • With three golds up for grabs, rivalries intensify:

     • Boulder: Garnbret vs. Raboutou (USA)

     • Lead: Mori vs. Schubert (Austria)

     • Speed: World-record chases 4.

4. Viewer-Friendly

   • Easier to follow. No more confusing “rank multiplication” math—just pure climbing excellence 4.

Why This Matters Beyond 2028

• Youth Inspiration: Kids can now train for specific disciplines early, like gymnastics’ apparatus specialization 4.

• Olympic Legacy: Cements climbing as a core sport with distinct events, mirroring track & field’s sprint vs. marathon 14.

Pro Tip: Watch for Sorato Anraku (Japan)—at just 17 in Paris, he’s a future boulder/lead double threat 4.

How to Follow the Sport & Where to Watch LA28 Qualifiers

The road to the Los Angeles 2028 Olympics (LA28) is packed with thrilling qualifiers, and you won’t want to miss a moment. Whether you’re a die-hard fan or new to Olympic sports, here’s your guide to staying updated—from tracking athletes to catching every showdown live.

1. Follow Official Channels

Start with the LA28 website and newsletter for schedules, athlete spotlights, and venue updates 612. The International Olympic Committee (IOC) also shares announcements, including qualifier dates and broadcast details 13. Pro tip: Turn on notifications for real-time alerts!

2. Watch Qualifiers Live

Qualifiers will air on:

• NBC (U.S. coverage) and its streaming platform, Peacock.

• Olympic Channel (global streaming).

• ESPN/Disney+ for sports like flag football and lacrosse 715.

• Local broadcasters (e.g., BBC, Eurosport) for international viewers.

For niche sports like climbing or surfing, check specialized platforms like Red Bull TV or World Lacrosse’s YouTube channel 815.

3. Track Athletes on Social Media

Olympians like gymnasts, swimmers, and flag football stars often post training clips and qualifier results. Follow hashtags like #LA28Bound or team accounts (e.g., @TeamUSA) for behind-the-scenes content 12.

4. Attend In-Person Events

Some qualifiers, like lacrosse’s Sixes World Championships (2026), will host public events. Grab tickets early—they sell fast! Venues like BMO Stadium (lacrosse/flag football) and Rose Bowl (soccer) will also host pre-Games exhibitions 915.

5. Use Apps & Fantasy Leagues

Apps like Olympics.com offer live scores, while fantasy sports platforms (e.g., NFL Pick’em for flag football) let you predict outcomes 7.

Pro Tip: New to a sport? Our [Climbing Equipment Guide] breaks down gear basics for beginners!

Conclusion 

From Paris 2024’s combined events to LA28’s specialized lineup, the Olympics keep evolving. Whether you’re streaming qualifiers or training like an athlete, the excitement starts now.